A

---

Adze - An adze is similar to an axe, imagine an axe with its blade at a right angle to its haft (helve or handle).

Adze, Carpenters - This adze similar to the standard adze, yet has a square back of the blade, that can be used for striking other object as in a hammer or maul action.

Adze, Coopers - The coopers adze is held by one hand and has a curved blade, typically used by barrel makers, favored for its small and easy to use weight and size, and for the curved blade.

Adze, Sculptors - The sculptors adze has a straighter blade quite the opposite of the coopers adze, it as well is used by one hand.

Adze, Ship Carpenters - This specialty adze has a blade similar to the shape of a garden hoe, and is fitted with a spur on the back of the blade, the spur is used to set large nails or to punch holes or indentations into the wood.

B

---

C

---

Calipers inside - Entry needed

Calipers outside - Entry needed

D

---

Dividers/Compass - Entry needed

E

---

F

---

G

---

Gauge butt - differs from a mortising gauge in that its spurs are at extreme ends of the beams. It can, therefore, be used in internal corners such as door jamb when gauging for the width of the hinges. It is made of steel and has three spurs.1

Gauge marking - made of wood or steel. The one most commonly used consists of a square, wooden bar or beam, about 8 in. long, on which a wooden block or head slides. This block can be fastened at any point of the bar by means of a brass set-screw bearing against a brass shoe. The block, on the best grade of gauge, is protected from wear by a piece of brass set flush with its surface. The bar is graduated in inches and provided with a steel point or spur fastened near the end with a screw. The spur must be filed to a fine point.
This tool is used for marking or gauging widths on narrow pieces of wood, such as table legs, etc. When using it. move the gauge away from you, and tip is slightly forward, keeping the block in contact with the edge or face of the board at all times.1

Gauge mortising - is a marking gauge with two spurs, which can be spaced at different distances and mark two parallel lines at the same time. One type is made of rosewood and has and adjusting screw in the end of the beam, which moves one of the points up or down the as desired. The other side of the beam is fitted with a single point as an ordinary marking gauge. This gauge is used chiefly for layout out mortises and tenons. Other types are made entirely of metal and have two bars.1

Gauge slitting - is similar to the panel gauge, but has a handle in addition to the block. It has a knife instead of a spur and is used for cutting thin stock.1

H

---

Handsaw - See various types below

• Ripsaw - The ripsaw is used for ripping or cutting with the grain along the straight line. Blades of ripsaws vary in length from 20 to 28 in. They are always wider at the handle than at the end, in order to prevent them from bending or buckling when they are pushed through the wood.
• Crosscut saw - The crosscut saw is similar in shape and appearance to the ripsaw. The only difference lies in the shape of the teeth, which are filed to a point instead of square across as on a ripsaw. The number of points to the inch varies from 8 to 12.
• Backsaw - The backsaw is a crosscut saw wtih a thin blade and fine teeth. A heavy piece of steel fitted over the back of the thin blade prevents it from buckling. The blades of backsaws are from 8 to 18 in. long. Backsaws are used for finer work such as cheek and shoulder cuts on tenons.
• Dovetail saw - The dovetail saw is shaped like a backsaw, but has thinner, narrower blade and finer teeth. The handle of a dovetail saw is shaped like a chisel handle. The length of the blade varies from 6 to 12 in. It is used for extremely fine work such as cutting of dovetails.
• Compass saw - shaped like a ripsaw, but its blade is so narrow that it can cut on curved line. It is particularly useful in cutting a section from within a board or panel. A hole is bored near the line to be cut and the pointed end of the saw inserted into this hole.
• Keyhole saw - is a smaller and finer compass saw.
• Turning saw - consists of a very narrow blade, about 3/16 in. wide, which is held under tension in a frame. It has ripsaw teeth and is used for cutting curves, as the blade usually can be revolved in the frame. It can also be set in the frame so that it cuts either on the pulling or the pushing stroke.
• Hack saw - Entry needed
• Coping saw - Entry needed

I

---

J

---

K

---

L

---

Level - Entry needed

M

---

Measuring tape - Used by carpenters, contractors, and architects. They are made of steel or cloth, and usually measure from 25 to 100 ft. in length. They are divided into inches and feet, or meters and centimeters.1

Miter box - Entry needed

Miter and try-square - can be used at both 90 and 45 degrees. Miter squares can only be used for angles of 45 degrees.1

N

---

O

---

P

---

Planes - See various types below.

• Jack plane - Entry needed
• Fore plane - Entry needed
• Jointer plane - Entry needed
• Smooth plane - Entry needed
• Circular plane - Entry needed
• Block plane - Entry needed
• Bullnose plane - Entry needed
• Rabbet and Fillister plane - Entry needed
• Dado plane - Entry needed
• Match plane - Entry needed
• Router plane - Entry needed
• Universal plane - Entry needed
• Molding planes - Entry needed

Plumb bob - Entry needed

Q

---

R

---

Rule - Rules are made in different lengths and of different materials. Those used by woodworkers are usually of the folding type, and measure from 2 to 8 feet in length. Rules are generally marked off on both sides in inches and subdivisions of an inch, but they are also made with such divisions on one side and metric divisions on the other.1

S

---

Sliding T bevel - are similar to try-squares, but differ in that their blades are adjustable to any angle. They are used for laying out angles other than right angles, as for instance, corners braces, dovetails, or side rails for chairs.1

T

---

Trammel points -

Try-square - Used for testing the squareness of lumber, and in checking the squareness of work being assembled, especially in places where a framing square would be too large. Try-squares consist of two parts, the stock and the blade, which are firmly fastened together at right angles. The stock is thick and made of wood or iron. The blade, which is thin, is made of steel and has an inch scale stamped on it. Try-squares are made in sizes from 4 to 12 in., measured from the end of the blade to the stock.1

U

---

V

---

W

---

X

---

Y

---

Z

---

Reference